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The Devil`s in the details!
I`m in the process of getting my bridge set and found out that the bridge is set pretty far forward in comparison with my bridgeplate. The saddle slot lands right on the front edge of my bridge plate. It still "catches" it, but isn`t this too far forward? There`s still 7/16" of plate on the rear side of the bridge.
I`m sure about my scale length (24.9"), but something sure seems to be awry.
Coe

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Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

Yep, it is too far forward. I'm not sure what you should do. I'm sure other members have been there and will share their wisdom. You can be sure that you are not alone in doing that.

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"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.

almost sounds like a 25.4" or 25.5" scale bracing pattern on the top not matching up with a shorter scale being used.

Co, as long as the bridge catches the x-braces and the ball ends seat in the bridge plate, I don't see any major problem. However, you could always remove the bridge plate and replace it.   

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

The bridge plate helps support the top to resist a sharp bend under the torque of the bridge. The front edge of the bridge is where a lot of that torqueing (sp?) force is concentrated, pushing down into the top. I'd be concerned about not having the support of the bridge plate there.

The bridge plate also acts as a cross-grain laminate stabilizing the cross-grain movement (with changes in moisture content) of the top, keeping the bridge from popping off. I'm guessing this function wouldn't be greatly affected by the bridge extending forward of the plate, but I'd be a bit concerned about that possibility as well.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I'd tend to agree with Don A. The "X" should mitigate the forward/downward pressure of the bridge. Remember, a number of people use pinless bridges, and some use them without any plate, or just a thin veneer under the bridge's backside to eliminate its tendency to "bubble" the top in that area.

I'd be interested to know if there are a lot of 5, 10, 20, 30, 50 year old guitars out there with pinless bridges and no bridge plates that do not have increased problems with unusually distorted tops in the immediate area of the bridge, or with bridge/top glue joint failure. Unless and until I learn that there are a lot of those guitars out there doing fine, I wouldn't risk it. Just my opinion.

BTW, I make my guitars with pinless bridges and with bridge plates.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

[QUOTE=Todd Rose] I'd be interested to know if there are a lot of 5, 10, 20, 30, 50 year old guitars out there with pinless bridges and no bridge plates that do not have increased problems ...[/QUOTE]
Good point, Todd. I'd be interested in that, too.

Todd, the commission guitar I just got has requested a pinless bridge, and on a 12-string no less. I may be picking your brain for details on the pinless if that is ok with you.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Sure, Dave... though there are people with a lot more experience making them than myself. I'll be away for several days starting this morning, but after that, pick away, my brain can take it...

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Thanks Todd! It'll be a month or more till I am at that point anyway. Man, it's great to have this forum to bounce things off folks who have already done it!

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars